Petra, Jordan

May 2002

Once the capital of the Nabateaeans, a 3rd century BC Arab dynasty, Petra is a stunning city carved from a cliff face. Forgotten for 1000 years and only rediscovered in 1812, Petra raised its public profile with an appearance in the movie Indiana Jones & the Last Crusade.

Set in a deep canyon and only accessible through a narrow winding cleft (or siq) in the rock, Petra is carved from sandstone that takes on deep rusty hues interlaced with bands of grey and yellow. The most famous ruin is the Khazneh, or treasury, whose beautifully carved facade is the first thing you'll see when you enter from the siq. The monastery is equally imposing, and if you climb to the top you'll get stunning views. Other ruins include an 8000-seat amphitheatre and the Temple of the Winged Lions, still in the process of excavation.

The area surrounding Petra is on a very steep development curve. Petra itself and the neighbouring village of Wadi Musa has expanded from a population of about 9000 to 35,000 in the last five years on the back of 2-3000 tourists a day visiting Petra. 9/11 has changed all that however. When I went in early May 2002, they were only getting 200 tourists a day and the economy was suffering. Bad for them but good if you like the place to yourself instead of swarming with American package tourists.

The Siq and the Khazneh

Looking up through the Siq. The rock colours are amazing and winding along the sides are ancient water canals that supplied the city with water.

The first glimpses of the Khazneh after walking through a kilometre or so of winding gorge.

The Khazneh, or treasury. Contrary to the scenes in Indian Jones And The Last Crusade, there isn't a lot of space inside ... nor the holy grail for that matter.