Palmyra, Syria

Early May 2002

 

This is the 'if you're only going to see one thing in Syria, see this' sight.  And due to all the turmoil in other parts of the Middle East, it's pretty much free of tourists - great if you like wondering around fantastic Roman ruins by yourself - bad if you are a tour guide or in camel hire and trying to make a living. .  It was this place that convinced me that the only place to see ruins is the middle east.  Italy with all the crowds is just unpleasant.

 

View of Palmyra from Qala'at ibn Maan - a marmuluke fort overlloking Palmyra.

 

 

Some History (courtesy of Lonely Planet)

Palmyra was at one time a Greek outpost of considerable importance.  It was an Assyrian caravan town for over 1000 years but only enjoyed it's later Greek period of glory for two centuries.  It was annexed by Rome in AD217 and became a centre of unsurpassed wealth.

 

The city's most famous character was Zenobia, the half-Greek, half-Arab queen who claimed descent from Cleopatra.  She was a woman of exceptional ability and ambition, and after the death in suspicious circumstances of her husband Odenathus, she became ruler of Palmyra from AD267.  She set her sights on Rome, but her troops were soundly beaten by the forces of Aurelian in 271, and the city was put to the torch by him two years later.

 

This was the beginning of the end for Palmyra.  It fell to the Muslims in 634 and was finally completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1089.

 

 

Some Links

Cool Pictures By Stuart Whatling

 

 

Temple of Baal-Shamin

 

 

 

Temple of Bel

The sanctuary in the great Temple of Bel

 

 

 

The sanctuary in the great Temple of Bel from the front

 

The north Adyton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colonades and archways on the Cardo Maximus

Archway and columns with the Tetrapylon in the background.

 

Columns

 

'Triumphal' arch

 

Bryan and I on camels.  He got the ugly one.

 

And with our guide.

 

Inscriptions in arabic on Roman stone.

 

Columns of the Cardo Maximus and the Tetrapylon

 

 

The Roman Theatre

The theatre

 

Other Shots Of Palmyra

Ruins

 

 

 

Funerary towers of Yemliko

Funeral tower of Yemliko

 

 

 

Bryan and I tired out walking to the fortress of Qala'at ibn Maan.

 

On The Road To Palmyra

Palmyra is in the middle of nowhere, 150km (93mi) from the Orontes River to the west and 200km (124mi) from the Euphrates to the east ... and Baghdad.

 

Sheep in the morning at our campsite near Palmyra.  I woke up with these animals nosing around the entrance to my tent.

 

Flock of sheep in the desert.

 

Mobile radar installation near an air force base.  Also saw lots of tanks around as well.

 

On the truck.

 

Next:

Syria, 1. Aleppo, 2. Hama, 3. Palmyra, 4. Krak des Chevaliers, 5. Damascus